Paige Claassen

As climbers, athletes, Boulderites, or human beings, we’re all at least a tiny bit concerned with our diets. Whether it’s skimping on the salad dressing, eating nothing but rice cakes and gummy worms all day because they’re “fat free”, or trying to limit sodium intake like my Grandpa, we all have some slightly neurotic food tweak that we believe makes us healthier/fitter/more attractive/stronger/lighter. However, most of us are unwilling to skip dessert (dessert has 2 s’s people, because you always want seconds). That’s why, among all the diet fads out there, I’m choosing the recently recognized Cake For Breakfast diet. I mean, this study has to be accurate, right? right? Regardless, we’re all looking to cheat the system sometimes. I for one, am always trying to justify eating the whole cake…by myself. So, I found this recipe for Chocolate Almond Joy Bars, adapted from Elana’s Pantry, an awesome collection of gluten free and typically dairy free (of which I am neither, and still think they all taste amazing) recipes. I like the bars in cake form, and bake it all the time. It never lasts more than 24 hours. Benefits include: no food coma, no dessert hangover the next day, and will not inhibit climbing. Hopefully that will give you reason enough to bake it yourself!

But before you start baking, check out the Marmot site, updated this week with all new Spring 2012 gear and photos from a shoot I helped with in Jackson, Wyoming last August!

from Elana's Pantry

Chocolate Almond Joy Cake

3 eggs

3/4 cup light coconut milk

1 1/2 teaspoons almond extract

3/4 cup sugar (I use coconut palm sugar, but I’ve tried others and they all work)

1 cup flour (I used a mix of millet, coconut, and oat flours, but I’ve tried it with white flour and it works just the same)

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 cup shredded coconut (I like unsweetened)

3/4 cup chocolate chips

1. Whisk eggs, coconut milk, almond extract, and sugar

2. Combine flour, salt, and baking soda

3. Mix dry ingredients into wet (I just use the same bowl from the beginning)

4. Stir in coconut and chocolate chips (The chocolate chips all sink to the bottom, but they create a nice chocolate crust layer)

5. Pour into 8×8 or comparable baking dish

6. Sprinkle more chocolate chips and coconut on top if you want it to look pretty

7. Bake at 350 degrees for 20-30 minutes, depending on where you live

I don’t know whether I have a fragile body, low pain tolerance, or I just whine a lot, but typically, some part of my body hurts. It’s safe to say that most of the time, I have only myself to blame for these aches and pains. When I was 12, I felt the need to prove I could do bicep curls with 25 pound weights at every team practice. As a result, I have mild tendonitis that flares up when I boulder too much (or maybe that’s just my excuse not to boulder! shh..). When I was 17, I decided that wearing climbing shoes four sizes smaller than my street shoes would make me invincible in competitions. It did not. Instead, I got bursitis, which led to surgery to shave down the back of my heel bone. These casualties were caused by nothing other than my ego. I felt the need to prove myself, I took it too far, and I wound up with my elbows deep in buckets of ice or my foot propped up on the couch for three months.

Less ego driven, albeit still a common problem, is the dreaded caveman slump. Just take a walk around the local gym or crag, and you’ll see this widespread phenomena that plagues the climbing community. Our rhomboids, trapezius, and erectors are overstretched, and our pectorals and supporting chest muscles tighten up, so we slump like seventeen year old high school boys with bad attitudes.

I’m no doctor (as confirmed by my attempt to name the aforementioned muscles), but I think injuries and misalignments are our bodies’ way of telling us to chill out. We’re over training, we’re moving too fast, we’re using poor technique, we’re not warming up enough, we’re trying to show off. The list goes on. Finally, our bodies say “enough”, and force us into a treacherous period of rest and mental torment as we watch our healthy friends go send our projects. Most of us use this “recovery time” to overtrain on the campus board or climb one footed, a cycle which further worsens our technique and creates new injuries.

The moral? Take time to listen to your body. It’s a complicated machine that can be thrown off with the slightest misuse. That said, our bodies were built for activity and they know how to work, if only we provide them with the necessary rest and care. As for prevention, take more time to warm up. Know your limits, and push them only a reasonable amount. Don’t crush your feet in tiny shoes. And find a better way to impress the gentlemen (or ladies) than heaving too heavy of weights around the gym as you throw out your back (so not hot).

In addition to not being a doctor, I’m also not a physical therapist, nor do I know anything about the technicalities of human anatomy. However, I’ve found a few exercises that have helped me over the years. I’m only preaching to myself here, as I could benefit from a few repetitions a day rather  than the once a month routine I currently follow.

Ulnar Nerve Glides: Although this is an exercise to help the nerve “glide” through its insertion point in the muscle, I’ve found this helps my elbows when they start to flare up.

Start with your arm straight out, horizontal to the floor and your wrist tilted back towards your body, palm facing towards the opposite wall. Leading with your fingers, arc your hand towards your head, aiming to set your palm flush against your ear. IMPORTANT! Don’t tilt your head to meet your hand. It’s okay if your palm can’t lay flat against your head. Start with your finger tips below your chin and push your palm towards your face until you feel a slight stretch. ALSO IMPORTANT: Focus on keeping your shoulder pulled down to the ground. This is when I really feel the stretch.

Ultra Mega Forearm Bicep Elbow Stretch: I don’t know what this is called, but it also relieves my elbows.

Much like the ulnar nerve glides, the goal is to get your palm flush against the wall. But don’t push it! Start with your fingers face down with just your fingertips against the wall. Slowly work your way towards your palm flat against the wall (over a period of weeks, not minutes). IMPORTANT! Keep your shoulder down, it will naturally want to rise up to help your hand go flat. ALSO IMPORTANT! Stand up straight. Leaning your body in order to stretch further is ineffective.

Wall Angels: Erik Cumming of Grip Massage showed me this exercise and it works posture miracles! Truly. This one reverses the hunch back and helps keep your spine inline. I often have trouble with lower back pain and this helps a ton.

Start with your back against the wall, with your feet hip width about one foot away from the wall. Your butt and shoulders should lay against the wall, but allow your spine to curve naturally. Make a goal post with your arms, then slowly slide your arms up the wall, keeping your shoulder blades flush against the wall. This is surprisingly painful if you do it right!

Happy stretching!

One of my closest friends, and my roommate, Emily Harrington, will attempt to summit Mount Everest this spring. To put it mildly, Emily is a badass. She was a badass long before Everest came into the picture. Not only has she worked her way well into the ranks of sport climbing, with multiple ascents of 5.14b, but she has also made a mark for herself in the world of mixed and ice climbing. Emily took home the gold medal in this year’s Ouray Ice Festival, and has mixed climbed M9. While I can’t say much about what M9 means, as my ice experience ends at one toprope, I can vouch for the fact that Emily is one of the bravest, most versatile, and most talented climbers I know. I thought it would be fun to ask her a few questions about her trip. When she returns, we’ll check back in and see what she has to say about her experience.

Who will be on your expedition team?

The North Face Athletes: Conrad Anker, Cory Richards, Kris Erickson, Sam Elias, Hilaree O’Neil, and myself

National Geographic Writer Mark Jenkins

NOLS Instructor Phil Henderson

Montana State University Geology Professor David Lageson

Does your team have a specific mission, other than summiting?

We will be conducting geological research on the mountain, but that is primarily Dave’s objective.  He wants to measure the summit, something that hasn’t accurately been done since 1999. The Himalayas are growing, so Everest is probably a bit taller than it was in 1999.  Dave is also working with Phil to develop a science curriculum for 5th grade students to educate them on climatology, glaciology, and geology.  We’re also helping researchers from the Mayo Clinic with physiological testing. We’re the guinea pigs. The whole thing is quite multi-faceted and detailed.

You went to the Mayo Clinic for pre expedition testing a few weeks back. What were they measuring?

We did lung and heart ultrasounds, lung capacity/breathing tests, VO2 max testing, EKG, Dexa body fat and bone density scans.  The purpose was to get a baseline of measurements for each of us, to compare to the tests and measurements they will take intermittently at basecamp, as well as shortly after we return home. The researchers want to study the effects of high altitude on the body because there are striking similarities between the symptoms of altitude sickness (Pulmonary Edema – water in the lungs) and those experienced by people who suffer heart failure and other cardiovascular problems.  Their research has the capacity to affect a lot of people who suffer from heart problems.  It feels pretty amazing to be a part of something that has such important implications for so many people.

 Can you describe the route you’re taking?

It has many names: the Normal Route, Southeast Ridge, South Col. It’s the easiest and most common way to the summit.

How long will you be at basecamp and how long does it take to summit?

We’ll probably arrive at basecamp in early April and start acclimatizing, then go for the summit sometime in May. So, a while.

I hear you’ll be working on an art project while you’re there. Tell me about that.

Oh yeah. I almost forgot about that.  It’s a little side project Sam and I got involved with as a result of our connection to Matthew Barney, an artist who we met in 2010 when he asked me to solo the side of a museum for one of his projects.  A German artist who is interning with Matthew is meeting us at basecamp to give us some water from the Dead Sea, which we’ll take to the summit (hopefully we make it to the summit).  We’ll pour it out and fill the bottle with snow so the artist can take it to the Dead Sea and pour it out.  The art world is very different, and it’s often hard to understand the motives.  From what I understand, the gist of this project is to connect the highest point on earth with the lowest point.  Pretty rad.

What have you been doing to prepare?

Running, hiking, and acquiring ridiculous amounts of gear that I thought I would never need or use in my life. We were told to try and gain a little weight as well, which I think I succeeded at by abandoning all the neurotic food habits I’ve acquired from sport and competition climbing for over half my life. To be honest, it felt quite liberating.

What will you eat while you’re there?

We’re bringing quite a bit of food with us, but we’ll also eat traditional food.  Sherpas eat lentils and rice, called dal bot, for almost every meal.  It gets a bit old.  It’s also hard to digest protein and fat at high altitudes, so we will eat a lot of simple carbohydrates.  Mashed potatoes, noodles, rice, candy.  No Paleo dieting on Everest..

Do you have any personal goals?

I’d really like to be able to say that I stood on top of the world, and when I meet random people on airplanes and tell them I’m a professional climber, I’d like to be able to answer “yes indeed I have” to their inevitable question, “have you climbed Everest?”  The most important thing to me though is to be safe, return home, and keep all of my fingers and toes.  In the long run, my rock climbing is still most important to me.  I see this as a welcome change and incredible opportunity to experience something entirely new.  Climbing is my whole life, and I want to experience it all.

Are you nervous?

Yes.  And scared and excited and hyper and stressed out.  All at once.

When you’re in a giant one piece down body suit, how are you going to poop?

Fortunately they’ve got that figured out.  There’s a zipper on the backside.

How many clean pairs of socks are you taking?

I think maybe 5 or 6?

Good luck to Emily and her team!

For more information on the expedition, visit

http://www.montana.edu/everest/

http://www.neverstopexploring.com/blog/2012/03/mountaineer-conrad-anker-to-lead-spring-2012-expedition-to-mount-everest-with-support-of-national-ge.html

Living room packing explosion

Spring break has recently taken on a new dimension. For the past four months I have looked forward to returning to Mill Creek to work on a long standing project. The only thing that could stop me were inclement weather conditions. Since Mill Creek sits in a valley of the La Sal Mountains, melting snow frequently runs down the routes, rendering a few of the classics unclimbable in the spring months. However, it was not this misfortunate that put a kink in my trip, but yet another bizarre foot injury I’ve inflicted on myself. Somehow, I’ve managed to aggravate a nerve in my foot to the point where I can hardly flex it inward. So, in an effort to heal before summer plans start rolling, I decided to stay home in Boulder over spring break. Although devastating at first, this decision led me to the mission of finding a new way to spend my break. Thus, Cupcake Week was born! Come back each day for a new invented-by-me-from-scratch recipe. Each recipe gets it’s own original name, thanks to the help of my dear friend and devoted taste tester Kara Caputo, whose cupcake critiques will grace each post (for better or worse).  Additionally, I recently got a new camera, and am struggling through the dslr learning curve. So, for anyone who cares to follow my photography progress (i.e. my friends whose dogs are my test subjects), take a look. For any kind soul who has some advice for improvement, please don’t hesitate to comment. Without further ado, welcome to Cupcake Week!

Good thing taste made up for lack of aesthetic appeal..

I Love You Very Matcha Cupcakes

3/4 cup light coconut milk

3 eggs

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

3/4 cup coconut palm sugar

1/3 cup almond flour

1/3 cup coconut flour

1/3 cup oat flour

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons matcha powder

Blend coconut milk, eggs, vanilla, and sugar in large bowl. Add dry ingredients and mix. Yep, a one bowl recipe.

Frosting:

1/2 cup powdered sugar

4 tablespoons coconut milk

3 tablespoons honey

1/2 teaspoon beet powder

Blend.

Reviews:

“These little cakes have so matcha flavor! They prove that the initials P.C. not only stand for Paige Claassen, but also Perfection Confection. Green tea is one of my all time favorite flavors, but unfortunately few dare to use it. This is one of my absolute favorite uses for the rare flavor!” -Kara Caputo

“To top things off, the icing creates a texture affair. It combines the right amount of crisp with a humble but delightful touch of sweetness.” -Nic Sherman

The most patient of models, Zala

“These cupcakes taste like spring-light, sweet, and delicious. The zesty lemon frosting is amazing, and goes well with the subtle flavors of the spongy lavender cake. Perfect for tea time, these make you want to smile!” -Kara Caputo, taste tester and cupcake namer

And for those who are worried lavender will taste like soap…

“I was originally put off at the thought of lavender in my food, because it normally belongs in soaps, detergents, and perfumes, but once I had a bite, I moved past this thought. The lavender was subtle enough to be enjoyable and not make you think you’re eating soap and the lemon frosting goes really well with the lavender.” -Nic Sherman, taste tester

Lemon Lavender Lust Cupcakes

1/2 cup almond milk

1/4 cup light coconut milk

1 Tbs canola oil

2 eggs

1/3 cup sugar

1/4 cup honey

1 Tbs tapioca flour

1 cup all purpose flour

1/4 tsp salt

1/4 tsp baking powder

1/2 tsp baking soda

1 1/2 Tbs lavender flowers (the kind you would steep to make tea)

1. Mix milks, oil, eggs, sugar and honey in a large bowl until smooth.

2. Add flours, salt, baking powder, and baking soda to the same bowl and mix until combined.

3. The lavender is tricky. The flowers need to be broken up for their flavor and fragrance to release. I used a small food processor tilted at an angle so that the flowers wouldn’t just sit at the bottom. You could also chop the flowers with a knife, although that didn’t work very well for me. Once chopped, mix flowers into batter.

4. Pour into muffin tins and bake at 350 degrees for 20-25 minutes.

Light Lemon Frosting

I decided I don’t like towers of thick, heavy frosting on my cupcakes. Although thin frosting isn’t at pretty, I think it tastes better.

1/2 cup heavy whipping cream

1 cup powdered sugar

2 Tbs lemon juice

1 Tbs lemon zest

1. Whip cream with high speed mixer until cream becomes thick and forms stiff peaks.

2. Add powdered sugar, lemon juice, and zest, and mix until smooth and fluffy.

And the camera practice photos…perhaps not appropriate for a food post. Oh well!

These cupcakes are the essence of summer. While I definitely prefer the mountains over the beach, coconut and lime together make me want to visit a white sanded beach with crystal blue water. Or maybe spring break is just getting to my head..

For me, this is about as healthy as baking gets. Key Lime Colada Cupcakes certainly taste a bit less sweet, perhaps more like muffins than cupcakes. Alyrene Dorey suggested that these would make a nice breakfast food. Low glycemic, high fiber, and tropical – a good summer intro!

3/4 cup coconut milk

2 eggs

1/3 cup egg whites

1/2 cup coconut sugar

1 tsp coconut extract

1/4 cup honey

3/4 cup all purpose flour

1/2 cup coconut flour

1/2 tsp baking soda

1/4 tsp baking powder

1/4 tsp salt

3/4 cup shredded coconut

1. Mix coconut milk, eggs, whites, sugar, honey, and coconut extract in a large bowl until smooth

2. Add flours, baking soda and powder, salt, and shredded coconut and mix until evenly combined

3. Pour into muffin tins and bake at 350 degrees for 20-25 minutes

Key Lime Glaze

1/2 cup heavy whipping cream

1 cup powdered sugar

2 Tbs freshly squeezed lime juice

2 tsp lime zest

1/4 cup shredded coconut

1. Whip cream on high speed until thick and stiff peaks begin to form

2. Add powdered sugar, lime juice, and zest, and mix until smooth

3. Drizzle glaze over cupcakes and sprinkle shredded coconut on top

Well, if you love this name, you should thank the one and only Kara Caputo. If it confuses you, go brush up on your childhood knock knock jokes. Regardless, the name proceeded the cupcake. And no, there aren’t bananas in the recipe. In order to come up with a cupcake that would live up to this name, I imagined the best possible compliment to orange, and ended up with chocolate. In all fairness, I would have chosen chocolate regardless of the first flavor. The chocolate cupcakes weren’t too chocolatey, I might suggest adding more cocoa powder and perhaps mini chocolate chips to increase the chocolate pow. The frosting tasted like an orange creamsicle, delicious!

Chocolate Orange You Glad I Didn’t Say Banana Cupcakes

Yield 12

1 cup coconut milk

3 eggs

1/2 cup freshly squeezed orange juice

1 tsp orange zest

1/4 cup granulated sugar

2/3 cup coconut palm sugar

1 cup all purpose flour

1/2 cup almond flour

1/4 cup tapioca flour

1/3 cup cocoa powder

1/2 tsp baking soda

1/4 tsp baking powder

1/4 tsp salt

1. Mix coconut milk, eggs, orange juice, zest, and sugars in a large bowl until smooth

2. Add flours, cocoa powder, baking soda and powder, and salt and mix until combined

3. Pour into muffin tins and bake at 350 degrees for 15-20 minutes

Orange Creamsicle Buttercream Frosting

3 Tbs heavy whipping cream

2 Tbs butter (room temperature)

1/4 cup freshly squeezed orange juice

2 Tbs orange zest

2 cups powdered sugar

2 tsp vanilla

1. Whip butter and cream in medium sized bowl until mixture thickens

2. Add orange juice, zest, powdered sugar, and vanilla, and mix until thick and smooth. If the frosting doesn’t hold it’s shape, add more powdered sugar

And now for the camera practice..

Non-cupcake baking night with Seth, Neely, and Zala

Neely + Paleo Blondie

Kate and I, a self portrait

I’ve never liked Earl Grey Tea. I think it’s boring. And Earl makes me think of the horrid Dixie Chicks song Earl’s Gotta Die. Quite the contrary, Earl Grey II was a strapping young voyager who delighted in exquisite teas (just read the back of the box). So, seeing as I’m the only one who doesn’t like Earl Grey, I thought I would attempt to meet the expectations of my friends by creating an Earl Grey cupcake. I also figured I’d probably like Earl a lot better in sweetened baked good form. With ginger on top.

“Paige once told me she wasn’t a fan of Earl Grey tea because it tasted plain and boring. In a impressive display of skill, she took this classic but somewhat conservative tea and created a delightfully tasty cake. The Earl Grey in the cake is flavorful enough to be recognized, and enhanced by subtle sweetness. The ginger frosting is a perfect compliment to the cake and adds spice to the cautious notes of Earl. Prime Minister Grey would have been proud of these little cakes.” -Kara Caputo, Taste Tester

The Earl Cupcake

1 cup coconut milk

3 eggs

1 Tbs vanilla extract

2/3 cup coconut palm sugar

1/4 cup granulated sugar

4 Earl Grey tea bags

1 cup all purpose flour

3/4 cup almond flour

1/2 tsp baking soda

1/4 tsp baking powder

1/4 tsp salt

1. Mix coconut milk, eggs, vanilla, and sugars until combined

2. Empty contents of tea bags into liquid mixture. I think it’s a good idea to rub the leaves between your palms or fingers to release the flavors as you sprinkle them into the mix.

3. Add flours, baking soda, baking powder, and salt, and mix until smooth

4. Pour into muffin tins and bake at 350 degrees for 20-25 minutes

Ginger Buttercream Frosting

2 Tbs butter, softened

3 Tbs heavy whipping cream

1 1/2 tsp vanilla extract

3 Tbs ginger wine (found at the liquor store in the dessert wine section)

2 tsp grated ginger

2 cups powdered sugar

1. Whip butter and cream on high speed until smooth and stiff

2. Add vanilla, ginger wine, ginger, and powdered sugar, and whip until smooth. If frosting is too thin, add powdered sugar.

And finally, a little trip to the Denver Art Museum!

Well, it’s been a long time since I got to write about climbing. For the last month, I’ve been climbing one footed in the gym in order to let the building tendonitis in my foot calm down and heal. Don’t ask me how I acquired tendonitis in the top of my foot – I don’t even run. Nevertheless, with the help of acupuncture by David Scrimgeour, things are feeling much less aggravated. To my surprise, climbing with one foot for a month has really helped my climbing, or at least my dynamic capabilities. I don’t often train power, but climbing with one foot forced me to do a lot of swinging and jumping. I might be walking lopsided now, as the left side of my lower half got super strong while the right side atrophied, but I’ve always said that training power doesn’t come easy. I guess that applies here as well.

I even got out to Eldo last weekend with my friend Hayden Kennedy, whose endless stream of what qualify under nothing less than “Haydenisms”, always make for a laughter filled day. Despite his long list of achievements, even just within the last few months (read: first fair means ascent of the Southeast Ridge of Cerro Torre and the FA of Indian Creek’s hardest route, dubbed by Hayden “Carbondale Shortbus“), Hayden is one of the most humble climbers I’ve ever met. In fact, if he comes across this post, he probably won’t be too thrilled about the contents of the preceding parenthesis.

Hayden. Respect.

We did an ultra fun, 2 pitch 10a, Metamorphosis, before getting on Rainbow Wall, a beautiful 13a from the 80′s that I’ve always heard about and wanted to try. Let me tell you, Rainbow Wall is business. The slightest bit of heat or moisture makes the barely there holds feel like nothing more than impurities in the clean face. I’ll remember to bring my finger strength, super high step abilities, and TC Pros next time I go back for a try, because I certainly forgot all those last weekend. At the end of the day we met up with Josh Finkelstein and took a few laps on the Monument, a powerful 12d that is basically the antithesis of Eldo climbing – sporty, steep, jugs.

Rainbow Wall - traverse left through the lower crack and head up the blank left face.

The Monument

Fingers crossed, I’m headed out to Utah this weekend to put in some long awaited hours at Mill Creek. Stay tuned!

I’ve spent the past few weekends battling a project at one of my top three favorite areas in the world – Mill Creek, Utah. The battle continues, and so far the route is winning. Until I step up my opposition, enjoy a photo recap!

Mill Creek’s very own Princess Lisa

Ben Spannuth – a true sportsman. Golfer, climber (he made quick work of the Bleeding), aspen bender.

My number one support system (my parents, not Bodhi and Amiko…well them too)

Turning the tables on the paparazzi

Lindsay Gasch Crush[ing] Skull

Just another day on the [campsite] range

Earth Day at the skate park

Icy mornings

Castleton

1. Vital Tea Leaf. I can’t say I know a lot about tea, but I’ll throw it out there that this tea shop is the best. Sit down at a low bar and sample miniature cups of whatever tea you like, steeped right in front of you. Careful, you just might be there for a few hours while the very sweet Chinese owners keep steeping and pouring and asking what you’d like to try next. My favorites- milk oolong and artichoke/chrysanthemum/hibiscus.

2. The Ballet. As per recommendation from Joel Love, whose sister Emma is in the Pacific Northwest Ballet, my brother Sam and I went to see Don Quixote. Talk about athletic, climbers are wimps compared to ballerinas!

3. Vertical World. America’s first climbing gym just relocated and upgraded – and it’s mega. It only took 5 routes up the 65 foot wall (50 vertical feet) to render my arms useless for the next three days. Every route I tried was awesome – consistant, no stopper moves, and unique sequences – all difficult qualities to find while climbing in the gym. I had the privilege of climbing with the king of VW himself, Bret Johnston. Not only does this kid set the awesome routes here, he also crushes them all and is incredibly motivating to climb with.

4. The gum wall.

5. Bicycle Polo. Who knew this was a sport?

6. Hipsters. I learned two cool new trends. First, apparently you should spend a lot of money on a camera that looks old and takes poor quality old photos, but is actually brand new. Second, iphone cases that make your phone look like a giant Nokia from the 90′s will certainly score style points.

7. Little Si. Don’t be fooled by the number of link ups on this wall, it’s incredible. Who doesn’t want to climb on rhino rock, a mysteriously unidentified conglomerate? Although the rock is quite slick (dare I compare it to Rifle?), the stone is super solid (unlike Rifle) and features every grip you can imagine. Just don’t forget your 70m rope, sticky rubber, and super stealthy onsighting eyes (it’s not easy to onsight here). If you’ve got those, enjoy ultra long, slightly overhanging slices of heaven up to 5.14c. Thanks to Bret, Emma, and B-Hops for taking us out!

A throwback of Lauren Lee/McCormick bustin it out at Little Si. Andy Mann photo

8. Visit Sam! The true objective of my trip was to visit my brother who ventured out to Seattle University this past fall. And he certainly gave me a proper tour of the city, complete with seafood, lots of walking, and plentiful desserts!

Once upon a time…ahem, last month, I lived under the assumption that bouldering ability directly correlated with power. While working on Free Willy in Hueco a few weeks back with my friend Seth Lytton, I had an epiphany; To improve my bouldering skills, not only do I need to gain power but I also need to learn to think differently. This may seem obvious. However, until Seth, a “fusion sport boulder climber”, pointed out a few of my climbing habits, I had never thought of these intricacies. Here are the results:

First, I am always trying to conserve energy and recover. This makes sense on a route when you need to execute moves efficiently in order to have enough gas when you reach difficult moves further up the route. This also applies to onsighting, when you don’t know if or when the next rest hold will offer some relief. I believe that subconsciously I have taught myself to rest and chalk on any sort of decent hold, even if I can only pause for a moment. While the root of the logic makes sense, I think I have taken it too far. I chalk on nearly every hold of a route. This is completely unnecessary. It wastes energy and provides an explanation for why my skin looks like a dehydrated alligator. This “strategy” is even more useless in bouldering. In Hueco, I wore my chalk bag on every single boulder. I probably used it en route about twice. The essence of bouldering lies in dispatching the most difficult moves your body can handle. Thus, pausing to chalk and rest is not plausible. Also, boulders are shorter than routes and therefore do not require shaking out. Lesson: Rest less and don’t worry about conserving energy for the down climb.

Too much resting (Celin Serbo photo)

Too much chalking (Celin Serbo photo)

While on the subject of climbing quickly, lets talk about that. Although in real life I like to move fast and can’t sit still for very long, I tend to climb rather slowly. I’m not a dynamic climber, I’m horrible at jumping, and so I like to think about each move, get my feet up high, and lock off. I also try to control my body swing, another inefficiency. Who would have thought that you could use your swing to propel you to the next hold? As far as I’m concerned, when my feet cut, I’m off. Conversely, bouldering seems to frequently require cutting your feet and swinging to the next hold. This means you can’t pause at each hold, but instead have to move fluidly, using your momentum to surf from hold to hold. I find this difficult as well.

Seth Lytton ascending The Feather

Next, the process of working a boulder is much different from that of a route. Yes, shocking. As a general rule, if you can do each move of a long route individually, you can probably link it together. Thus, projecting a sport climb involves linking moves. In bouldering, the focus is just doing the moves. Consequently, the moves on a boulder problem are more challenging than those on a route. To make matters even more difficult, you can’t work moves while bouldering. There’s no pulling past a crux or starting mid route. Typically, working a move means starting from the ground every single time. The bad news: You might not even be able to feel the hold you’re going for, let alone know whether you’re capable of the move. The good news: If you stick the move, you probably started from the ground so you keep going, hopefully send, and never have to do that move again. This process applied to Snake Charmer, the boulder I was most proud of accomplishing on my trip and which I got to work with Sam Kelly, who is incredibly inspiring to climb with. I couldn’t imagine myself getting through the slopey arete crux, until I found myself shaking on the final moves to the top out. Sam sent as well, and we felt empowered by our highball accomplishment for at least ten minutes.

The alternative to a ground up approach

Sam Kelly relaxing her way up Snake Charmer

One last example further disproves all the notions I had formulated over my twelve years of climbing. I thought I had reached a point where I rarely got scared sport climbing. This was too bold of a statement, as I spent a day sport climbing in Hueco (true) and was utterly terrified. One route in particular drew me in, When Legends Die, a 1987 Todd Skinner route, which held the spot as one of America’s hardest sport climbs at the time (5.13a). To put it mildly, this route is stunning. It’s long (take a 70m rope), exposed, bouldery/steep/slopey at the bottom, technical/slabby/crimpy at the top, and runnout the entire way. Simply having the opportunity to climb on this historic route (thanks to a willing adventure guide, Chris Dye, and belayer/beta solver, Seth) was an incredible experience. I struggled with the bottom of the climb, which traverses right through big moves on alternating positive and slopey huecos. After taking a few test falls to gain confidence on the rumored deteriorating bolts (which are fine, save the first one, which you don’t really use), I worked through the bottom boulder, with Seth’s help, and into the incredible headwall. Let’s just say that if this were a relay, Seth and I would have sent that rig. Needless to say, I will be returning to finish up Legends some day, and maybe a few boulders as well.

The legendary When Legends Die

Todd Skinner begins the traverse on Legends

*Note 1: I normally don’t like to talk about route beta as I think it gets boring. However, since very few people ever try this route, and it truly is one of the coolest 5.13s I’ve ever been on, I’m hoping someone else will get inspired to give it a go.

*Note 2: I certainly made a lot of generalizations about bouldering vs. sport climbing here. I know that some boulder problems are just as long as routes and require the same amount of resting and chalking. These were my experiences in Hueco, but there are of course many exceptions.

A cheesy photo for my mom, because "you never put up any photos of yourself"

7 heated Pictionary games,  3 split fingers, 19 nights of sleeping in a tent, 4 galloping horses, 793 falls, and a few gunshots later, I’ve survived my first bouldering trip. Needless to say, much of my trip had nothing to do with climbing. But I’ve returned from Hueco Tanks with a greater appreciation for bouldering, Texas culture, and most importantly, Texans themselves. These people know how to have a good time. But first, lets start with the boulders.

I began my bouldering extravaganza utterly terrified of falling. After processing some of the most irrational thoughts possible while shaking in fear a mere three feet off the ground, I now feel more compassionate towards those afraid of lead falls. Each time I left the ground, I could think only of the gaping vortex of sunlight shining through a tiny crack or hole in the rock below me, which I was sure to be sucked down into should I fall. After a few self pep talks about the laws of gravity, which would ensure that I would fall directly down onto the crashpads instead of 12 feet to the right at a 45 degree angle into the scary vortex, my fears began to lift. I cannot claim that I am no longer terrified of bouldering. But thanks to expert crash pad placers, patient spotters, and plenty of trial falls, I feel slightly more comfortable than when I arrived.

At least I can climb V0-

Seth Lytton on the send

A steady crew of energetic, motivated, Katy Perry/death metal loving climbers made for an incredible trip. Lyric experts Trevor Turmelle (Hueco guide extraordinaire) and Sam Kelly, generously shared their favorite, unique corners of the park. I feel as though I got to see the true side of Hueco, areas of the park not often traveled. Most notably, I found it refreshing to climb with a group of individuals whose motivated approach to climbing was a far cry from obsessive. We chose problems based on whether or not they looked appealing to climb, regardless of grade. As a relatively inexperienced boulderer, I think this strategy helped me to appreciate the history and the movements of each climb, rather than trying to feed my ego and inevitably grow frustrated on problems at my limit. Needless to say, I was challenged both mentally and physically for a steady three weeks.

I’ll write more about bouldering in the following weeks, but I feel it’s important to devote some time to the most important part of my trip-the Texas culture. Sure, there’s the Rock Ranch “haven’t showered in a few weeks and don’t plan to soon so stay out of my man camp” grungy college boys culture. There’s also the historical culture of the Mescalero Apaches who left behind phenomenal pictographs and stories. But I’m talking about the hard working, hard playing culture of tried and true Texans.  I’ll call the following “The Last 24 Hours of 2011-Texas Style”.

Exhibit A: The Dude Ranch

10am: Weatherproof the ramada with the one and only, newly acclaimed Texan, Sam Kelly.

11:37am: Operate a power saw.

12:54pm: Construct adult sized Jenga.

Exhibit B: Anchor J Ranch

2pm: Arrive at Anchor J.

2:11pm: Learn to saddle Poncho, Lefty, Thunder, and Lightning.

Sam and Lefty

3:01pm: Mount horses.

3:42pm: Trot.

3:43pm: Canter.

3:43pm: Gallop. This was the single most terrifying event of my entire trip. I have very little experience with horses. To sit atop a horse who has decided to allow all four of his feet to leave the ground with each stride was quite exciting. Not to mention having to let go of the saddle horn with one hand in order to control the reins, only to discover that Poncho was going to run until he felt like stopping, regardless of the number of fearful “whoas” and timid jerks of the reins I initiated. He obviously knew he was in control of the situation. If only I had photographic documentation of the event, this post would be significantly more interesting.

4:27pm: Learn to unsaddle and brush horses.

5:09pm: Build a fence.

6pm: Commence patio festivities-homemade tamales and Pictionary.

7:46pm: Feed pet armadillo.

8:13pm: Homemade eggnog.

8:51pm: Collect tumbleweeds.

9:19pm: Tumbleweed bonfire.

9:41pm: S’mores and campfire songs.

11:51pm: Evaluate gun situation.

The Judge

12am: Seven Shotguns ring in the New Year.

Sam and Trevor. Safety first.

2am: Spend the night in Anchor J’s “Texas Room”, complete with lasso, Texas flag bedspread, life size John Wayne cardboard cutout, and branding classification diagram. Tip: If you plan to raise cows, do not choose a C as your brand. A cattle thief could easily convert that C into an O with any sort of other symbol inside, barring you from identifying your cow without slaughtering and skinning the cow to analyze the age of the branding marks. Folks, choose your brand wisely.

Thank you to Dean and Marsha and Sam and Trevor for sharing your homes and the adventures of the Lone Star State!

I am not a boulderer. I used to love bouldering, but now I love it slightly less. Optimal bouldering conditions (or so I hear) exist when icicles begin to form inside your nose. You have to carry around giant pieces of foam, which bystanders think are elk saddles, and which prevent you from sneaking through small crevices or between trees. It hurts my body. And most of all, it is absolutely terrifying. I prefer falling into light, cushy air.

But alas, I’ve come to terms with my distaste for a few of bouldering’s necessities, and have decided to embark on my first bouldering trip…ever. I can count on two hands the number of times I’ve bouldered outside. However, seeing as winter sport climbing destinations are cold and wet and snowy at best, Hueco Tanks seems like a more pleasant alternative. While thus far I’ve made it sound as though Hueco is a last resort and I’m dreading spending two weeks hurling myself at moves more difficult than the crux on the hardest sport route I’ve ever climbed, above no more than a tiny square pillow, I couldn’t be more excited for this trip.

I rarely set off for a climbing trip void of expectations, however, it is safe to say, my goals are not too lofty. I’d like to climb a route, excuse me a problem (or boulder?), more difficult than my previous best of V7. Regardless, I will try my very hardest, reminding myself that I am only a few feet off the ground. I will enjoy the sun and the company of friends who won’t believe I’m actually going to boulder until they see it with their own eyes. I will even enjoy being in a campsite without the comforts of my mom’s frosted Christmas cookies, my Grandma’s dark chocolate pecan clusters, cinnamon rolls, ginger ice cream, and every other compliment to gravity that has covered the kitchen counters over the last few weeks. Christmas in Estes Park with my family was wonderful, complete with snow, wildlife, and lots of games. However, I cannot eat another Christmas treat without feeling like I might die. So with that, I’m off to Hueco with my brother as co-pilot.

The 4 man toboggan. Sledding with Michelle Hurni, one of my high school climbing coaches, and her husband George.

I hope everyone had a merry Christmas and happy holidays. Don’t go too crazy on New Years, I’d like to see you all in 2012. Maybe we can even go bouldering together…but probably not.

Winter in Estes Park

Hayden, Colette, Emily, myself, and Jen at the Ouray Ice Festival. I tried ice climbing for the first time, top roping the easiest route in the Ice Park with only two falls. Needless to say, I won't be converting to ice any time soon.

I also got to watch my friend and roommate Emily Harrington compete in her first mixed competition. Andrew Bisharat photo

I gave my first slideshow in my hometown, Estes Park, Colorado and my second at Bent Gate Mountaineering in Golden, Colorado.

Sport Climbing Series Adult Nationals in April. Dane Cronin photo

As soon as school got out in May, my friend Neely and I took off for a month in Spain.

After Spain, I spent a few weeks climbing in Ceuse, France.

This was my first time traveling alone, although I was able to meet up with some friends from Switzerland, Mario, Damion, Remo, and Fridli.

The scene at my 21st birthday

Ally, Neely, Alex, and myself in Rifle, Colorado

A weekend at the Skinner house in Wild Iris, Wyoming

Part of the Marmot crew, Gabe Rogel and Brenton Reagan, in Jackson, Wyoming

After 17 years of play time, our family dog, Stimpy, passed away.

Christmas festivities with Dana, Jen, Emily, and Victoria

Sometimes I love climbing, and sometimes it’s not my favorite. I have to ask myself two questions to determine whether I actually enjoy ascending rocks, or whether I’m just climbing because it’s familiar and I feel guilty if I don’t climb. The first question is, do I have fun climbing even when I’m not climbing well? I’ve been on both sides of this statement before. I put a lot of pressure on myself, and when I don’t perform at or above my expectations, I often get frustrated. In these instances, I feel incapable, as though I’ve lost all the strength and abilities I had the day before. Sometimes I want to quit. I remember a particularly strong feeling of vexation, perhaps the peak of my aversion to climbing. When I was about 16, I decided to quit climbing and switch to basketball. Fortunately, this grand idea never made it beyond the hoop in my driveway. If it had, I would now be living in a dark cave of embarrassment for double dribbling or scoring for the other team or maybe tripping over the three point line. Apart from this brief period of frustration with my sport, I’ve gone through many phases of discontentment with my performance. Sometimes it lasts a few minutes, other times weeks or months. The only solution I’ve found: If I don’t want to climb, I don’t climb. More times than not, if I force myself to climb when my heart isn’t in it, my loathsome feelings will only worsen. Conversely, if I take time to rest my mind and body, my psych quickly returns. Climbing has to be fun, whether I’m climbing well, or flailing on my warmups.

The second question I ask myself is, when I’m resting, am I antsy to climb, or am I content sitting on my couch studying and watching TV. If I don’t feel a burning desire to get back on the rock, I need to keep resting. Unfortunately, there is another side to this equation. Often, even when I do feel that strong desire to climb, it doesn’t always mean I should. That’s where I am right now.

The past few weeks, my body has been begging me to rest. Not that I’ve been climbing a ton this fall, but sometimes things just hurt for no apparent reason. So, this Thanksgiving break, I’ve taken a step back and restrained myself from climbing. In fact, I’ve spent a considerable amount of time with my arms submerged in a bucket of ice. While I thought this would be devastating, I’ve been pleasantly surprised that in fact, there are other entertaining things out there besides rocks. Okay, I already knew there were plenty of fun things besides climbing, but the past week reinforced my suspicion. Below, a few restful activities to rejuvenate your mind and tendons.

Exhibit 1: Baking. My contribution to my family Thanksgiving dinner was pumpkin bread pudding. Highly recommended.

1. Soak 8 ounces french bread in 2 cups almond milk.
2. Combine 3 eggs, 2/3 cup brown sugar, 1/3 cup maple syrup, 1 1/2 cups fresh pumpkin puree, 1 cup dried cranberries, 3 tablespoons melted butter, 2 tsp cinnamon, 1/2 tsp nutmeg, and 1/2 tsp ginger. Blend and pour over soaked bread.
3. Bake at 350 degrees for 45-60 minutes.

Exhibit 2: Wyoming. I’ve always loved Wyoming. Amazing climbing (Sinks Canyon), gorgeous scenery (Wild Iris, Jackson), and of course, incredible people. My dear friend Kara and I visited the lovely Becca Skinner last week, and this trip met the extremely high standards I hold for one of the country’s best states. We even snuck in some woodland exploration, complete with dangerous weapons.

Becca and Kara, fully armed

Exhibit 3: My little brother. To be fair, he’s actually a lot bigger than me. Sam ventured off to college in Seattle this past September. Scary. It was nice to have my best friend back for a few days over Thanksgiving.

Essentials in hand: guitar and iphone

Exhibit 4: Helicopters. Remote control, to be exact. This one mixes well with Exhibit 3.

Exhibit 5: Planking. I’ve heard rumors of the coolness of this “activity”. Convince the whole family to participate, and it becomes a whole lot cooler.

Exhibit 6: Napkin Oragami. Self explanatory.

The oh so elegant, Bird of Paradise

I hope everyone enjoyed their Thanksgiving, whether tying in, falling on pads, or sitting at the table!

(If you’re looking for an update about climbing, this isn’t it. Currently, I’m only qualified to speak about climbing in the gym, which doesn’t lend itself to a very intriguing story. Instead, you can read about school, which may or may not be of greater interest than climbing in the gym. You can let me know.)

I’ve always really enjoyed school. I love learning about the world and I love being challenged. I also thought I loved being busy, until I was actually busy. Then I learned my personality just lends itself well to being busy because I like to feel productive. I see two themes emerging here, business and learning, so let’s roll with those.

For entertainment value, here's me learning to canoe

This semester, I’m struggling to find motivation for school. This might seem typical considering a)I’m a senior (or should be) and b) I’d like to have more time to climb/travel/sleep, just like everyone else. Despite these truths, I can’t blame my lack of motivation on “senioritis”. In fact, I would love to stay in school. For a long time. School is great because you get about five months of built in breaks and the entire purpose of your day to day life is to learn as much as you can about everything around you. To me, that’s fun.

What I can blame my lack of motivation on is that I don’t find my area of study inspiring. I’m a marketing student in the Business School at CU, and to be blunt, I don’t think I was cut out to be a sales person. Or an accountant. Or a CEO. A few years ago I struggled to find something in which I was truly interested. For lack of other direction, I chose to transfer to the business school with the thought that a business degree is applicable to many areas and industries, and is a good basic background to have. I still believe this, and I’m glad I made the choice I did, because it’s taught me a few things about myself.

First, my problem isn’t that I can’t find anything in which I’m interested. Contrarily, I’m interested in so many things that I can’t narrow it down. I like math, a lot. And I like anatomy, also a lot. Philosophy was one of the best courses I’ve ever taken at CU. Spanish was always fun. Literature courses also topped the list. If I could make my own degree,  based on these courses, I would call it “Chaos, for the indecisive, over spirited student who would like to remain a student forever but never actually focus on one discipline”. I’m typically a very focused person, so I feel okay about not being able to narrow down my efforts in one part of my life. Unfortunately, it had to be the part where some direction and specific decision making is actually helpful.

Second, I’ve come to a lot of conclusions about what is and is not important in my life. For example, it doesn’t matter how many figures are in my paycheck, if my career doesn’t contribute joy to my life, it’s not worth it. I think most people in the climbing community can relate to this in some form. Unfortunately, many business students cannot. Finally, I’ve learned what I don’t want to do, which is sometimes just as important as learning what you do want to do.

I still like being busy. But I miss having time to neurotically vacuum my house. Or bake three batches of cookies, a birthday cake, and a sweet potato pie in one afternoon. Or work on the 2000 piece jigsaw puzzle I made the mistake of starting in the middle of midterms. However, I still love school, or at least the idea of school, and know that even once I graduate, I will certainly be back for more at some point. Between times, there are plenty of other ways I can learn about the world, like traveling. But since traveling isn’t an option at this exact time, I will continue to browse through photos of my travels. This fun activity allows me to both procrastinate on my studies and build up motivation to work hard so that I can finish school and go climb, or travel, or go back to school. A cycle, if you will. Regardless of what I decide, I will undoubtedly learn a lot along the way, and that is what I truly care about.

As for the photos, check out what happens when you mix Gabe Rogel with the Marmot team in Teton National Park, Wyoming! More to come on the Marmot site in Spring 2012!

*There are no pretty pictures to accompany this post. Just thoughts. You’ve been warned..

This year, the climbing world has experienced an explosion in talent, achievements, and new standards. We’re all familiar with Adam Ondra’s recent sending sprees. But that’s not what I’m hear to talk about. I want to talk about the evolution of women’s climbing. Last summer, Angie Payne became the first woman to climb V13 with her ascent of the Automator. Anna Stohr closely followed suit just a month later. Last spring, Sasha DiGiulian tore up the Red River Gorge with multiple 5.14c First Female Ascents and a 5.14a onsight. This fall, she went back for more, making the third ascent and first female ascent of Jonathan Siegrist‘s Pure Imagination, 5.14d, in just six tries. How’s that for inspiring?

So, what’s the explanation for womens’ sudden approach toward the standards recently set solely by men? Perhaps women are now more physically capable. But seeing as we probably haven’t evolved much over the past 10, 20, even 50 years, this seems unlikely. Perhaps we’re learning to try harder, but this also seems unreasonable, as I can think of some incredible try hard faces from years past, so our level of effort is nothing new. I think the answer lies in our mental approach to the sport. Yes, we are becoming more aware of our abilities and potential to climb harder, reach further, jump higher, crimp harder, etc. However, I think women are also becoming more and more willing to fail.

Climbing is all about failing. Ask anyone who is climbing at their limit, whether that be 5.9 or 5.15, and they will certainly agree they’ve failed a few times. We fall, and we fall, and we fall. We make a small step forward on our project, and then we take a giant step back. We go through a rollar coaster of effort, motivation, success, and failure, and then finally, when we can hardly tolerate the route spitting us off one more time, we succeed. This is the process that I love about climbing. While it’s not fun to grow increasingly frustrated with doubts that we’ll ever finish a particular route, overcoming these doubts and learning from the whole process of failure is what keeps us all coming back for more.

After writing this, I’m starting to think this progression has a little more to do with our unwillingness to fail than our willingness to fail. Deep down, we just can’t let these giant rocks defeat us.  And so we try and try again until we conquer. I think it’s a little bit of both. Trying at your limit requires making yourself vulnerable. You never know if the end result will be in your favor or not. We approach the route as a challenge, knowing we might not come out on top. But the perseverance, the determination, even the egoistic drive to overcome, pushes us to first attempt, and then succeed.

The climbing community could go on forever explaining the progression of our sport. But the point is, it’s progressing. A few individuals (incredibly inspiring individuals) are leading the revolution, yet the collective efforts and shared enthusiasm of the community as a whole are what will really take us to the next level. Sasha and Adam are giving us a glimpse into modern rock climbing. Who knows what is to come!

Disclaimer: I know I linked a lot of people’s names to this post, however these are just my thoughts. Don’t take them too seriously.

I’ve been competing for a long time. In fact, I began competing within a month of my first experience in the climbing gym. My first competition was part of the Estes Park Climbing Gym’s kids climbing program. It was there that I met some of my earliest and dearest climbing friends, cried after taking my first lead fall,  and discovered my competitive edge after tying for first place with two gangly boys with whom I would later attend high school.

With my first coach, Jim Dahlstrom, at my first competition. Please note amazing shoes, watch, and choker necklace

First Nationals, Ann Arbor, Michigan

For the first seven years of my life as a climber, I thrived on competition. Nearly every weekend, and sometimes twice a weekend, my parents would drive me, my brother, and a slew of chattery ten year olds hoping to catch raffled t shirts and cliff bars, somewhere across the state for a competition. Bouldering, sport, youth, adult, local, national, it didn’t matter. All I wanted to do was train in the gym, scramble up plastic holds, and fill in my scorecard so I could stand on the podium and win a ribbon. Now, I have a giant box of ribbons and a load of memories filled with road trips to New Mexico, dyno competitions at Rock’n and Jam’n, over 40 DCL (Denver Climbing League) events, and many hours in the car with my incredibly energetic team, heckling my parents to pull over for ice cream.

One of many youth competitions with my brother, Sam

Much of the magic that initially consumed my ten year old competitive self has now disappeared. I have nothing against competitions, and I admire the people who diligently train to perform at their peak, under pressure, in front of hundreds or thousands of spectators. However, over the past few years, I’ve learned to accept that I would rather compete against myself than against my friends and peers.

Deep down, I am very competitive. People who know me well may even say it’s not that deep, but rather quite obvious. Whether who can power walk down Pearl street faster, or who got the best grade on a high school Algebra exam, I like to win. However, I often don’t like the person I become in competitive situations. I begin to compare myself to my competitors as my mind grasps for methods to beat the people who are otherwise just my friends and climbing partners. This is not the person I want to be. So, I’ve made an effort to detach myself from competing against others and instead focus on what I can do to better myself as a climber, as a partner, and as a person. I thought I would miss the competitive scene, but I’ve actually grown to love pushing myself for myself, against myself, and towards my own goals outside.

Boulder, Colorado World Cup 2011, Wade David photos

That said, I still feel the pressure to participate in competitions. That pressure, along with the excitement of Movement Climbing and Fitness in Boulder, Colorado hosting the United States’ first world cup in 22 years, drove me to compete this past weekend in the IFSC World Cup. To my surprise, I had a blast. Not only did I enjoy the time spent with visiting friends from across the country and world, but I also enjoyed the competition itself. Movement, USA Climbing, IFSC, and the countless individuals involved in organizing the event did an incredible job. The competition ran on time (something that rarely, if ever, occurs in the climbing world), the routes were fun to climb and exciting to watch, and an electrifying energy from competitors and spectators alike penetrated the gym (This just in, there were officially 1,257 spectators at finals!). Best of all, I got to attend a sport climbing competition as a spectator for one of the first times in my life. I think I was more nervous to watch my friends Sasha DiGiulian and Matty Hong compete in finals than I’ve ever been participating myself, but these two  proudly represented the US and proved they deserved to compete among the world’s best. Thanks to everyone who worked hard to make this weekend memorable and set the standard for many future world cups on US soil!

Most people know, I love the Monastery. The holds are thin, the angle is just off vertical, the scene is quiet, there’s a nice warmup hike…I could go on. But more importantly, the Monastery holds a special place in my heart, as it represents a milestone in my growth as a climber and a person. I never knew how to try hard until the first day I visited the Monastery, a miserably bitter cold day in fall of 2009. I’m not sure why I returned after that day. I wasn’t in shape for the hike and nearly died on the way out in the dark. I couldn’t feel my fingers, let alone the rock beneath them. It was not a pleasant day. Yet for the first time, I felt I had discovered a style that suited me, that I loved, and that would push me to test myself.

My favorite hold in the world

I’ve never been the best about pushing myself. I don’t particularly like being cold. If I don’t feel as though I’m climbing perfectly on a route, I might let go. But at the Monastery I quickly learned that things never feel perfect. It’s always hot or cold or windy or dry or smarmy. The moves always seem hard, no matter how many times I repeat them. The feet never feel big enough. It really comes down to whether I’m willing to try really really hard. With sparsely placed bolts, trying hard is often the only option, save whipping into the rock’s face down at your belayer’s level.

I’ve also never made noises before when I climb, except maybe a few wimpy squeals. Here, I found myself heaving and grunting my way up the wall. I learned to make my efforts count, because I didn’t get many each day. After one, maybe two burns on my project, my skin ached and my triceps ached more. To try at the very limit of my ability on every single move for eighty feet was a new experience to me. This was my journey on Grand Ole Opry.

Grand Ole Opry, Andy Mann photos

This Fall, I set out to finish up the Monastery. I had two more routes to complete, Third Millennium and Dreamcatcher. I could crimp my way through Third Millennium, but Dreamcatcher presented an opportunity to learn a few finger locking maneuvers. Needless to say, utilizing cracks is not my strength. But alas, I have completed the Monastery. To be fair, I still have Chateau Vert to complete, a 5.12 gear climb. However, this will have to wait until next spring after I learn to place and trust my gear. I’ll have no problem returning to my favorite crag in the world, again to learn something new.

Finally, HUGE thanks to CAMP for hooking up a few Monastery routes with new Gym Safe Express fixed draws. No more frayed dog bones and rope biting biners!