Fabrizio Zangrilli

Fabrizio Zangrilli
Alpine Climber

Climbing has taken him around the world, attempting and putting up new routes or speed ascents in the Himalaya, Alaska, Patagonia and Queen Maud Land, Antarctica - to name just a few of his expeditions. He has guided and or led expeditions to Everest, K2 (5 times) Makalu, Cho Oyu and the Gasherbrums, Nuptse South Face, Ama Dablam (5 times), Pumori and Cerro Torre. Fabrizio is one of the few climbers to go from K2 base Camp, 5000m, to camp 4, 7900m, and back to base camp in a 36 hour push. His main belief is speed is safety in the mountains, and really enjoys helping clients reach their goals!  Fabrizio, 38 years old, has been climbing for 22 years, divides his time between Colorado and Europe when not climbing, skiing and guiding in Asia eight months a year. He is fortunate enough to be a member of the Marmot, CAMP/Cassin, SCARPA and Ames Adventure Outfitter climbing teams. 

I was born in South Africa, lived in Europe half my life and have been based in Colorado for the past 20 years. I started climbing when I was 13 and never looked back. I have been very fortunate to have climbing take me around the world, attempting and putting up new routes or speed ascents in the Himalaya, Alaska, Patagonia and Queen Maud Land, Antarctica - to name just a few places I have been. I have guided and or led expeditions to Everest, K2 (5 times) Makalu, Broad Peak, Cho Oyu and the Gasherbrums, Nuptse south face, Nanga Parbat’s rupal face, Ama Dablam (5 times), Pumori and loads of other 6, 7 & 8000 meter peaks. I like to go fast in the mountains, like a fun “day in 2007 from K2 base Camp, 5000m, to camp 4, 7900m, and back to base camp in a push (36 Hours). Speed is safety in the mountains for me. I currently offer private or small group custom trips in Nepal, Pakistan, Tibet, and China to 6, 7, and 8000 meter peaks. It is a fun way to climb with clients, I try to get away from the crowds and climb aesthetic routes that require some alpine ice and mixed terrain. It is what I know best and love watching people get a bit lost in the moment. Recently I got the ski bug quite badly, the winter of ‘10/11 I spent most of the time traveling around Europe figuring out a bit of rando racing and mountain free ride. I came back from it in the best shape of my life. I think there is no better aerobic training for alpine climbing. I managed to ski in Rocky Mountain National Park 25 days as well the same winter. My favorite expeditions were to the (then) unclimbed south east face of Logan with Jack and Jay – two of the greatest alpinists and to Queen Maud Land in ‘00/01, which is just about the most amazing place in the world. Again I was with super people, and the remoteness was very humbling. I made attempts on the south faces of K2 and (Rupal) Nanga Parbat, and with Jack put up a new route on the Phantom Wall of Hunnington, in Alaska, we missed the summit and our chance of going down the Harvard route and had to rap the wall, many hours and one close call (we stripped the sheath on our 5mil spectra tag line, when our ropes got stuck) later we were on the ground. I am very proud of the style we climbed in and again learned alot from a legend. My biggest passion is alpine climbing, I do well at high altitude and combining the two makes me very happy. I love being lost in the moments of total commitment and solitude with just a partner or two. My upcoming plans for this year are back to high altitude, with trips to Makalu in the spring and K2 in the summer to do some filming and a bit of fun climbing, check in at http://web.me.com/fabriziozangrilli for updates and specifics! I am sponsored by SCARPA, CAMP, Ames Adventure Outfitters and Marmot My youtube page for lots of videos is: http://www.youtube.com/user/Fabriziozangrilli

Nice Marmot.